Tuesday 31 March 2009

Final couple of sketches & moulange


Here it is in situ, I think it makes quite a nice shape, skimming
around to the back.


Shaping the pattern piece for the back of the garment.


Here are the two front pieces, that overlap nicely
to make a mock wrap front.


Satisfied with the right front piece, I have taken it off the model
to trace the shape, and reproduce it to make the left front.



The style lines drawn onto the calico, a seam allowance
of 1.5cm is added, the surplus fabric is cut away.


Initial moulange on the tailors dummy; the construction
of the toile was somewhat determined by the model I used,
with few obvious construction lines to follow I decided to
place some darts to form the shaping around the bust,
rather than making a seam.
I have drawn on the calico to establish the shape of the
garment that I envisaged.


After much deliberation and procrastination,
I have finally decided to go with the above. A 
separate skirt with waistband will eliminate the
problem of having a pocket with a dart going
through it. One can also attach more panels
to the waistband, overlapping the pieces or taking
them around the back of the garment.




Bag Handles

I have been looking at various types of purse and bag handles to put onto my creation and form a pocket.
Nostalgia have a good selection though they are perhaps a little too antique in style.
Bags of Handles have a really broad selection of antique, vintage and modern style handles.
U-handbag also have a good selection, and their blog has lots of tips and tutorials on making bags and purses. I have bought 2 sizes of purse clasps from U-handbag, 1 is 4" wide, the other 6" wide, when I make the toile I will decide which size is best to use.

Attended a talk by Fashioning an Ethical Industry organised by Phionna Fitzgerald from the college.

Friday 13 March 2009

Simple pocket

Very simple, very easy, and creates lots of pockets.

Stitch the edges together, as above, ideally the edges should be bound.

Stitch two sections together, through all four thicknesses, with a decent width
seam allowance as this provides the gusset, the size of the inner pocket is incidental.

Fold the fabric in two, in this case along the length.
The fabric could be stiffened with interfacing.

Cut rectangles of fabric, twice the size of the desired finished size.

The principle for this series of pockets is to sew the pieces together in such a way
that they form their own gusset, and by doing so also make another smaller pocket.

Having a little play at making some pockets with little hidden pockets,
like a mobile filling cabinet. Compartments and concertinas.
To keep all those scribbled notes, bus tickets and credit cards safe.
With inspiration from Embroidered Boxes by Jane Lemon (1984) Batsford.

Thursday 12 March 2009

Pick a Pocket

I rather like this elegant twist on the kagoule
with the revealing kangaroo pocket on the front.
From Emma Cook's S/S 2009 collection.
Vintage workwear pockets from Carhartt
in ID October '08. I like the juxtaposition of utility
pockets and the trendy fashion styling.

Pair of tie on pockets (1774), pockets provided a versatile means
of independence for storing a ladies belongings.

Wednesday 11 March 2009

The fluff in the bottom of a pocket carries years of history

Jean Charles de Castelbajac - bag coat (2000) comments
"The body is the room and the pockets are the closets"
this is a little more ott than I want to create, but... who knows...
Elizabeth Arden (early 1930s), with the expansion of the cosmetic
industry and the glamour of Hollywood bags for carrying make up
became more sophisticated. I like the pocket for everything, woe betide
the glamour girl who blushes whilst hunting for the kohl.
Evening gasmask bag (1938-45), an attempt
to beautify the utility cardboard box that was
commonly used to navigate the blitz.
In 1939 38 million gasmasks were issued to 
protect against gas attacks, one for every civilian
man, woman and child in the UK.
Sovereign purse (1907). Something for the gentleman.
Lots of divisions, compartments, flaps and openings to
keep his money safe.
French opera bag (1910), a bag for every occasion, with every 
(respectable) circumstance catered for within the contents of the bag.
French chatelaine bag (1870s), when searching for
a pocket was too awkward and spoilt the line of the dress.
Accordion style bags were popular in the late 1940s
& early 1950s, functional with lots of separate compartments.

Bag by Wilardy (1954), reminds me rather of 
a students stack of books, skipping to the library...

I like the exoskeleton feel of these bags.
The reticule was the first type of external bag
as opposed to pocket hung from the waist,
introduced to complement the fashion for sheer
empire line dresses of the 1790s.
The French reticule (1815-1830) above reminds me 
rather of the rolodex idea I had. This could well be
where the inventors of card indexing got their inspiration!

I have been looking at various styles of bags to give me
inspiration for making interesting pockets on the "garment".
Interestingly there are similarities between some of the bags
and some of the ideas I have been thinking of.


The black and white images and information are from:
Bags & Purses by Vanda Foster (1982) Batsford.
The colour images and information are from:
Handbags: The Power of the Purse by Anna Johnson (2002) Workman.




Tuesday 3 March 2009

Sketches for making products module

Image Argos

Image from Staples.co.uk


In this sketch I was thinking of a rolodex rotary card file
I suppose these sort of things are almost redundant nowadays.


In this sketch I was looking at sewing boxes,
or fishing tackle boxes, all those compartments and
cantilever trays would make ideal places for storage
on the move.



In these 2 sketches I was having a little play with
the idea of a witch with her pockets full of potions, 
hence the added familiars!


Just little slit pockets, and a device for carrying
upside down flowers, harking back to some of the
photos a composed in semester 5.


Just thought I'd exaggerate the hips!

After unblocking the kitchen sink, I thought about
making un-screwable and flexible pockets inspired
by household plumbing.

Pockets as a sort of 3 dimensional decoration,
or patchwork even.

Belts and strappings for ticket and flower collectors.

Not quite jewellery, not quite clothes, more like
a stack of plant pots. Perhaps I was subconsciously 
thinking of Bill and Ben, fitting in with nostalgic trends.

These sketches are the start are my explorations of making a product that transports essential items, to transform somewhere into a special place.