Turn waistband to right side and press.
Turn under (width of seam allowance) one edge
of waistband piece without interfacing.
Pin waistband with interfacing to the right side
of the garment and the other piece to the inside
of the garment, tack, sew.
Turn to right side and press. Overlap the two front
pieces, matching centre fronts and raw edges, tack
to keep in place.
Trim seam allowance and notch curves.
Place bodice lining over main bodice,
match darts, side seams, centre fronts,
pin, sew, leaving bottom edge open -
be careful not to catch straps into seams.
Place straps at shoulder seams on left and
right sides of bodice front, tack. Make sure
that the shoulder seams and straps are aligned
correctly, or the straps won't lie right to cross
over at the back.
Sew back straps together, leaving one end open, trim,
turn to right side and press.
Sew front to back at side seams, clip curves and
press seam open.
Construction begins by sewing the darts
in the front pieces.
Pressed in the same direction on both pieces.
Here are the cut pattern pieces, including linings.
I had to work out quite carefully the size and shape of the pocket
piece that will have the purse attachment. I decided to have a seam at
the opening, so split the piece in two, and used the shape of the clasp
as a template to draw around, so the shape will fit into clasp,
added seam allowance. I chose the smaller purse clasp, although the it
is a bit of a squeeze to get my big hands through the opening, I thought
that the 6 inch clasp was too large for this project.
The pattern pieces have been cut out with 1.5cm seam allowance,
by tracing through onto pattern paper with the pieces from the
moulange underneath.
Here they are placed on the calico, awaiting to be cut out.
